Stingy Old Fogey

by CStence | May 25, 2013 | (8) Posted in How To

Tip: Just need the facts? A condensed list of the minimum equipment (with hyperlinks) can be found at the very bottom of this article.
----------------------------------------------

Like many folks, my first build was an FT Old Fogey. My brother and I printed off the plans, cut the foam board and took turns burning ourselves with the hot glue gun. It was loads of fun!


However, when it was time to buy the necessary equipment I had no idea what I needed. The first thing I did was consult Flitetest's build equipment list on their build article. However, as I would later realize, this was more of a shopping list of options rather than a specific equipment list. After going thru the (somewhat expensive) learning curve of what equipment to buy, what "2s" or "3s" means, how many "amps" the esc must handle and what prop to use so as not to burn out my motor, I figured it would be worth while to pass along what I have learned to the first timer looking to get into swappables cheaply. 


The following power pod list is very specific and is meant for the first timer who just wants to get flying cheaply. AFTER you've had some fun flying you'll surely do more learning and migrate to bigger and better equipment. These are the minimum required parts you need to get your power pod operational for the smallest amount of money! I welcome any compatible suggestions that might shave down the bottom number.


 
First of all, I've gotten EVERYTHING from Hobby King. You just can't beat their prices! One of the first things I found out was that Hobby King has worldwide warehouses and you cannot mix and match stock from the respective warehouses in your cart. Second, I found out that although the "International" warehouse will have the most selection, it will KILL you in shipping - both in time and cost. Bottom line? When you go to HobbyKing.com, be sure to select "USA Warehouse" only. All of the items I list are available in the USA Warehouse as of this writing. 

First off we'll start with the motor. One of the cheapest, lightest motors available is the Hobbyking Donkey ST2004-1550kv Brushless Motor. This motor works with 2s and 3s systems so all your bases are covered.
$5.75 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39093__HobbyKing_Donkey_ST2004_1550kv_Brushless_Motor_USA_warehouse_.html

-----------------------------------

EDIT: Currently my favorite motor is the Turnigy D2282/14 Brushless 1450KV motor. It only costs $7.98 but is quite a bit more crash resistant and provides over twice as much power! You can use the same prop and battery setups too!

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36719__D2822_14_Brushless_Outrunner_1450kv_USA_Warehouse_.html

------------------------------------

Next we'll need an electronic speed controller, or "ESC" to take power from the battery and make it usable for the motor. Cheap and light, the Hobbyking 10AMP ESC fits the bill nicely. The specs say it will work with 2s-3s systems so options are still open. $6.10
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26491__H_KING_10A_Fixed_Wing_Brushless_Speed_Controller_USA_Warehouse_.html

--------------------------------------------

EDIT: While the Hobbyking 10A ESC works great with my 2s setup, I found that it would cut out with my 3s setup. Oscillating rapidly during full power, it seems like it may be cutting out before the 10amps it is rated for. I see from the reviews of this item on Hobby King's website, others have had similar trouble. I'm planning on trying out the Turnigy AE-20A 19g 20Amp ESC for my setup. It has proven performance and is only $8.59. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28122 
---------------------------------------------

 


TIP: Connectors between the battery, ESC and motor can get pricey and require soldering. I found that Lowe's 12-count bullet-nose crimp-type connectors seem to work just fine and only cost $2.06.



For a battery, I decided keep the system light and went with a 2s battery. At 76grams and $5.75 the Zippy 1300Mah LiPo 2S battery is a great deal and should provide reasonable flight time. $5.75

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16774__ZIPPY_1300mAh_2S1P_20C_USA_Warehouse_.html


You'll need a special charger for LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries and Turnigy makes one that will charge both 2s and 3s batteries for only $4.68.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41163__Turnigy_balancer_Charger_2S_3S_USA_warehouse_.html
For an extra $3.96 you can buy the Hobbyking version that will also charge 4s batteries.

 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36906__Hobbyking_DC_4S_Balance_Charger_Cell_Checker_30w_2s_4s_USA_Warehouse_.html

 


While the charger does come with gator clips for you to hook to a 12V car battery, you'll need a power supply to plug the charger into a 110V house outlet. Hobbyking sells one for $9.47 that fits the bill nicely. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34106__HobbyKing_Power_Supply_100_240v_5A_USA_Warehouse_.html


For a radio controller, Hobby King sells a 4 channel complete system that includes the controller (transmitter) and the receiver for $26.37. 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15142__Hobby_King_2_4Ghz_4Ch_Tx_Rx_V2_Mode_2_USA_Warehouse_.html

However, for only $3.63 you can upgrade to the 6 channel version. This basically gives you the option of plugging in two additional servos should you decide to get creative and add bombing capability to your Old Fogey.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15140__Hobby_King_2_4Ghz_6Ch_Tx_Rx_V2_Mode_2_USA_Warehouse_.html

The last thing you'll need for the power pod is a prop. Since I went with the 2s system an 8" by 4.5" pitch (8045) prop is recommended ($2.47 for a 4/pack). However several props are listed in the specs for the HobbyKing Donkey motor should you decide to use a 3s system. I believe they call for a 7045 (7" X 4.5") prop with a 3s battery.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36714__Slow_Fly_Electric_Prop_8045R_SF_4_pc_USA_Warehouse_.html

----------------------------

Tip: Read the specs section of any motor you plan on buying. Usually you'll find a suggested prop and battery combo. If not, scroll down thru the reviews - someone has likely figured it out and you can go with their suggestion.

-------------------------


One of the things that will save you $$$ in the long run are "prop-savers." They are basically prop hubs that slide onto the motor and are secured with two screws. An o-ring holds the prop to the motor and allows non-radial movement (such as in a crash) that helps save the prop and will (hopefully) keep the motor shaft from getting bent. As of this writing they aren't available in the USA warehouse. However, for only $2.99 you can ship some from the international warehouse at $1.49 for a total cost of $4.48.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__3738__3mm_Prop_Saver_w_Adapter_3_bands.html

--------------------------------

Edit: Don't forget servos! I didn't add this to the list originally because it doesn't go in your powerpod. However, if you're reading this, there is a good chance you are a newbie like me and are building a swappable that will need servos. The HXT900 9Gram Servo is promoted by Flite Test and experience has shown me that it seems to be the most rugged and durable, although other similarly rated servos will work for a while.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22927__HXT900_9g_1_6kg_12sec_Micro_Servo_USA_Warehouse_.html

---------------------------------

That does it! You should be good to go. Total cost? $66.83, plus shipping from the USA warehouse in Washington to your location. To put that in perspective, Harbor Freight sells a barebones 3-channel foam RC plane for about $80. However none of the components are lightweight, the batteries are old technoligy and nothing is very swappable (for when you DO crash). Depending on shipping ($15-$20 for me in FL), you will have about the same money in something that is totally repairable, better quality, expandable and usable in your other Flitetest Swappable builds.

In fact, over half of the cost (minus shipping) is in initial start-up costs for things like the radio receiver and battery charger. What does that mean? It means that if you wanted to build additional power pods for other swappables or maybe you TOTALLY destroyed your powerpod (minus the receiver module) you could replace the whole thing for less than $20. Sweet Diggity! :) 

---------------------------------------

Tip: I've noticed that if you are "checking out" an item long enough on Hobby King's website there will often be a pop-up that offers a small discount on that item. 

---------------------------------------


Thanks for reading. If anyone knows of cheaper ways to get started with a power pod, please be sure to list it in the comments below. Of course, keeping it compatible with the other parts would be awesome!


 

My Equipment List:

Motor: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26491__H_KING_10A_Fixed_Wing_Brushless_Speed_Controller_USA_Warehouse_.html

ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26491__H_KING_10A_Fixed_Wing_Brushless_Speed_Controller_USA_Warehouse_.html

Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16774__ZIPPY_1300mAh_2S1P_20C_USA_Warehouse_.html

Charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41163__Turnigy_balancer_Charger_2S_3S_USA_warehouse_.html

Power Supply: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34106__HobbyKing_Power_Supply_100_240v_5A_USA_Warehouse_.html

Radio (4CH): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15142__Hobby_King_2_4Ghz_4Ch_Tx_Rx_V2_Mode_2_USA_Warehouse_.html

Prop: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36714__Slow_Fly_Electric_Prop_8045R_SF_4_pc_USA_Warehouse_.html

**Prop Saver: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__3738__3mm_Prop_Saver_w_Adapter_3_bands.html

 **Internationl warehouse: BE SURE TO PUT THIS ON A SEPARATE ORDER

 

 

 

COMMENTS

Villalji on May 26, 2013
LiPo= lithium polymer
Log In to reply
CStence on May 26, 2013
Fixed it. Thanks!
Log In to reply
NoUsername on May 26, 2013
You sure did your homework on this one, lol. Good job.
Log In to reply
mrmattstence on May 26, 2013
Great job bro!
Log In to reply
Psteph88 on May 26, 2013
What are you guys using for the control linkages (wire) for the servos? Where do you get them? I have been using the marking flags you use to mark out where buried utilities are located on my previous builds but they are not long enough for the old fogey?
Log In to reply
CStence on May 27, 2013
I've used small gauge welding wire - it's a little heavier than needed but is cheap, plenty long and seems to work okay.
Also, check this video out by Chad and David of Flitetest :) They have a section where they use a regular rod and shrink-wrap a small secton of rod with a "z" bend in to the very end of it.
http://flitetest.com/articles/control_linkages
Log In to reply
azgar on May 28, 2013
When I want to go cheap, I use BBQ sticks. These come in different diameters and lengths, get a 100, select some straight ones.
As for ends You might like paper clips. Bend them to desired shape, cut the excess. Then put it onto Your pusher, warp with a sewing thread. And smear with CA glue.
If You need to conserve weight, go with carbon fiber rods.
Hobbyking has it starting with 1 mm.
Log In to reply
Hell2Go on November 20, 2013
try a google search for piano wire, it is stiff for holding your z-bend, and you can use coffee stirrers glued to fuse to prevent flexing. look for .055 - .062" diameters. it usually comes in 1 meter lengths.
Log In to reply
ccrawford on May 28, 2013
Nice list. The one thing I'd recommend to newbies (i think I might now be in "Beginner" status!) is a lot more props. As you're learning, it's not unusual to break a lot of them, and they're pretty cheap. I'd start with at least a dozen. Prop savers probably help a bit, but if you put it down nose-first, they can only do so much. I'd also recommend buying two batteries right away.
Log In to reply
CStence on May 29, 2013
Great advice! In my case I had more problems with the motor - bent shafts, broken mounts, etc.,. I now have "back-ups" of each item. For as cheap as they are, I'd rather spend a little more green and NOT be waiting for a 2-3 shipment from Washington
Log In to reply
Hell2Go on November 20, 2013
I was going to post something like this too, as I have several friends that I'm trying to get into the hobby. Good job! Hobbyking also has an Emax motor that is great, there is a cf2822 sometimes listed as fc2822. I'd stick with the 1200KV motor as opposed to the 1534KV. The 1200kv suggests a 10x4.7 Slowfly prop to get 745 grams of thrust,but that is pushing it, you can use an 8x4.5 or a 9x5 and run full throttle all day long and not overheat your motor. The smaller prop will produce less thrust, but these swappable planes are only 300 - 600 grams depending on model and you only need a little more thrust than the weight of the plane to fly well. Another bonus is you can always go back up to a 10x3.8 or the 10x4.7 on a bigger plane for the higher required thrust so it is more versatile for other swappables.
Log In to reply
Hell2Go on November 20, 2013
If anyone near Lockport, NY wants to get into the hobby and wants help, send me an email, and I will do what I can to get you flying. Hell2Go@aol.com, my name is Ed.
Log In to reply
Nathan_116 on February 11, 2014
Thanks for the article, about a month ago I was looking at the hobbyking controllers and reading the reviews. People were saying that there was a problem with them not being proportional and them giving more throw one way than the other. Have you experienced this ever?

Log In to reply
CStence on February 20, 2014
The short answer is yes, particularly on the rudder. However, it is very slight and hasn't really made a difference with flying. This is especially true since you aren't really going to full throws during most beginner-type flying.
Log In to reply

You need to log-in to comment on articles.


Stingy Old Fogey