FT 3D - Scratch Build by FliteTest

Rating: 4.93      69 ratings
Posted: February 28, 2013  |  141,521 views
INFLUENCE 93%

FTScratchBuild-Advanced


The FT 3D is also available as a laser cut Speed Build Kit in our store. CLICK HERE to learn more.

FT 3D Build Plans Available Here::
FT 3D - Swappable  [ FULL SIZE ]
FT 3D - Swappable [ TILED ]
 

Click HERE to see the POWER POD BUILD VIDEO

3D Hobby Shop motor: 
Omega 72g Brushless Outrunner


Equipment used in this build:
NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w
Hextronic 9 Gram Servo 
TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller
FT Firewall
FT Control horns 
1 mm piano wire (push rods)

3D Hobby Shop motor: 
Omega 72g Brushless Outrunner

Additional/Alternate components:
Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.)
APC-style Electric Propeller - 8x4E
Suppo 18A Brushless ESC
Suppo SP-90 9g Micro Servo

LazerToyz motor/power pack: 
SWAPPABLE POWER/ELECTRONICS PACK "THE BEEF" 
"THE BEEF" (Motor only)  GT2210/11 55G

More details on electronics for your Speed Build Swappable Power Pod


The FT 3D foam board scratch build is another addition to the swappable fuselage series.
Be sure to check out some of the other scratch build tutorials before taking on this advanced scratch build.

A full list of the electronics and components is available here

If you'd like to purchase the firewall and control horns used in this scratch build, check out our web store!

In the tail of the fuselage, it's a good idea to leave the slots in tact until your are ready to install your rudder.

This foam swappable features a tapered symmetrical wing design.

The two wings are connected with a balsa wood spar setup which has proven to be very strong, holding up after multiple crashes in our tests.

The removable canopy hatch is another advanced design that gives you access to your fuselage as well as creating a streamlined looking aircraft.

The CG of this airplane is directly above the front servo slot. The plans have everything detailed for you.

Check out more images and join the discussion in the forum post!  CLICK HERE
 
And as we mentioned before the FT 3D is also available as a laser cut Speed Build Kit in our store. 
CLICK HERE to learn more.

Related Articles


» Join the discussions on our forums

Comments

Hasersys February 28, 2013
Just started my build! thanks for the plans and great videos! Is some one doing laundry?
Log In to reply
cloud9photos February 28, 2013
this made my day, ive been waiting for this one. Now since i bugged you guys so much about this one coming out i better build one fast. Thanks again for all you guys do


Log In to reply
flitetest_mexico February 28, 2013
what size prop are you using?, i cant find the wing plans, can anyone help me? :(
Log In to reply
cloud9photos February 28, 2013
The wing plans are missing in action. I'm sure they will post them soon
Log In to reply
doron1604 February 28, 2013
Thank you flitetest!!!

It seems like the Speed Build & Swappable electronics and component list does not fit the FT 3D.

The wings plan is missing as well.
Log In to reply
flitetest_mexico February 28, 2013
i THINK they are using the NTM prop drive 28 26A series but it doesent say if it uses a 9" prop or a 10" or an " neither if it is a 3 or 4 cell battery

sorry for my bad english
Log In to reply
ronnie.burchfield. February 28, 2013
great build guys as usual !!!
Log In to reply
Adib Vahedi February 28, 2013
thanks so much you guys rock i hope i can do that!!!!!
Your the best Bixler thanks for doing all the build videos!!!!!

Keep up the great work!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;)
Log In to reply
fburd February 28, 2013
Wow, excellent design!!
what is the wingspan and the all up weight??
Thanks!!
Ford
Log In to reply
cloud9photos February 28, 2013
Yay, the wings plans have been posted. I love the look of this plane!
Log In to reply
FliteTest February 28, 2013
Wing plans have been added! Sorry about that.
Log In to reply
rogerjiangcf February 28, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
philip monday February 28, 2013
looking forward to seeing this speed build kit in your store. curious tho on the price of this plane....
Log In to reply
baronbernie February 28, 2013
On the plans an optional tail wheel is shown, Wil there be any video instructions and part number information provided?
Log In to reply
csarazin March 1, 2013
I like it :) I usually do the cuts myself but I'm thinking for this one I will order the kit :) ... Did I miss the gluing of the tail in the build Video? I will watch it again :) Thanks for an other excellent build Video
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 1, 2013
THANK YOU,THANK YOU-------usual " but "could you include overall deminsions wing span and fuse length, transfering them from from small scale print out garantees none will be alike
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 1, 2013
top edge of powerpod is at least 1/16 above skewer holes but skewers end up almost flush with inner top of fuse with no room for top flange
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 1, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
rcflyer729 March 1, 2013
How do you print it tilled?
Log In to reply
Bolvon72 March 3, 2013
Use the newest Adobe, XI I think, print poster with cut marks
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 1, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
Jonaith March 1, 2013
Hello , i'm a little new in the hobby and i really like the swappable serie but in this one you seem to use 2 servo for the aileron i was wondering do you plug them in two different channel and use mixing or something like an Y wire so it will fit in the aileron channel? Thanks for the scratch built i'll try it by the end of this summer for sure!

Log In to reply
Exhodus March 2, 2013
It's pretty much up to you, both have its ups and downs. With Y cable you dont need to set up mixes and dont need a radio that can mix, but you have to manually "reverse" one of the servos so put it in "upside-down" or you will not have the correct motion!
With separate channels you have to play around mixing and takes up two slots, but if your radio can do it, i recommend this as you can set up flapperons on that setup as well, which might come handy on landing if you are new to this hobby, although I dont know how will this plane behave with flapperons.
My guess as for why this has 2 servos is that the ailerons are huge, and it would likely burn out a single 9 gram servo
Log In to reply
superrcflier March 10, 2013
No you don't have to put upside down if you are using Y cable and installing side ways, because servos on ailerons are opposite to each-other and that means servo arms also pointing opposite to each-other.
Log In to reply
Villalji March 1, 2013
Greeeeeeaaaaat! Thank you again for this awesome design! You guys are the best!
Now I just need to finish the baby blender, crash it, re-stock material, and start this new buil. 😜
Log In to reply
Exhodus March 2, 2013
Josh! What do you think will this plane be able to carry a big hunking 2200 3s with this motor? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14732__Turnigy_L2210A_1650_Brushless_Motor_180w_.html

Great plans! Just moved to the top of my build list! Also can barely wait for the FT Cruzr :)
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 2, 2013
I have to wonder if you have experienced a variation in the thickness of the foam board .Ofcourse I don't know how the lazer cuts the A&B folds but my home made tools sometimes cut too deep.Cheap tools made from wood and razor blades.
Log In to reply
carsten March 2, 2013
Hi Flite Test

I am from Denmark. Great show you have. Thanks for all. Learned a lot.

I think you call it something like 'Dollar store' where you buy the material's
With paper on top. ?
I can not find anything like it in Europe.
Can you help. ?

With the Swede onboard my flying buddy''s have nick named you guy's ....
' The Flying Muppets ' :))

Kind regards Carsten Wu Sonderskov, Denmark
Log In to reply
Exhodus March 3, 2013
It's called Adams Foamboad or Readyboard and it's only available in north america! In europe there is something similar called Kappa line foamboard, but its usually quite expensive
Log In to reply
carsten March 5, 2013
Thank you so much :))

Say adjö to the swede. ;)

Kind regards Carsten
Log In to reply
iZilly March 6, 2013
I was about to ask the same.. also from Denmark here and we don´t have anything like this here sadly.. i have found a few German websites who sells this or similar, also with the paper on it. You can get it here but it is never as cheap as in U.S sadly! the downside of being in Europe... everything is so expensive!

http://www.epp-versand.de/a_depron.php
Log In to reply
matto November 3, 2014
Hi carsten,

In Finland we have depron which is available at different hardware and building supply stores. It usually comes in 6mm sheets (without paper) which means you have to adjust the plans sometimes to get the parts to fit neatly. I've built many of the FT series planes from it and it works great. Just be sure to use a low temperature glue gun so the depron doesn't melt.

Hälsningar från Finland :)
Log In to reply
chops1sc March 3, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
liveyourdreamsRC March 3, 2013
I really appreciate how much time and effort you guys put into building and designing these. Great episode again! Keep it up, I'm looking forward to the FT Cruiser.
Log In to reply
mattplaneflyer March 3, 2013
I'm working on this now can't wait to get it finished.
Log In to reply
oneiwily March 4, 2013
great work guys, I really love the gracefully way you do it , I'm not at the 3D fly level but I really enjoy the swappable series. I may build this one for the looks, or as a teaser to get my skill level up.

Log In to reply
Chubbs March 4, 2013
This is really a top notch set of plans guys! Well done! The "fit and finish" is definitely a step above the previous kits. I just finished the airframe build last night, now I just need to mount my servos and maiden.

A couple of tips for anyone who is going to attempt the build:
1.) Tolerances are TIGHT!!! When Josh says the power pod to the fuselage is a "perfect friction fit", I don't think that accounts for the tape on the outside of the power pod. It is most certainly tight. The same applies to the wing spar location which is butted right up against the power pod, and the tail mounting. It barely needs glue!
2.) Get a good glue gun. Josh mentions it in the video several times, I thought he was kidding as my little mini-glue gun has successfully built the baby blender...this one is different. Get a 40W full size glue gun minimum. $15 from harbor freight tools.
3.) take your time cutting out parts. Remember how tight I said the tolerances are? A slightly misplaced cut can really kill this build. This would certainly be a good candidate for a "build kit".

Excellent build, can't wait to fly it!
Log In to reply
stwaller12 March 4, 2013
Let me start out by saying, thanks Flitetest! This is a very cool plane. I just started gluing it together. I think this will be my favorite so far.
Just an FYI, on the fuse plans the one of the folds on the canopy is labeled an "A" fold, but in the video you say it's a "B" fold.
Log In to reply
xxxmuscat March 4, 2013
hi. I was just wondering what program you used to design your 2D and 3D plans to run your laser cutter. eg solidworks ,autocad. Also if u could make the file available so i could cut my own plans that would be great.
Log In to reply
twjones12 March 4, 2013
go your swappable 3 pack and look forward to you guys releasing the others, I would love this and all the others as well, I thought i would like to build but find the kit much more useful.
Log In to reply
wildbill40229 March 5, 2013
i am a little new to planes i find everything you guys do very helpful hope to see this in a speed build kit soon as i have no printer right now i do have one scratch build that i built off my hk mini stick that does pretty good but i have been looking for something like this
Log In to reply
Beckju March 5, 2013
Which program do you use to create the plans?
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 1, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
sailorJohn March 5, 2013
I also am staring at the airframe thinking that hatch made the same way as the canopy to enclose the battery compartment would increase the lift of the airframe from below like the cartoon planes do on ey0927399 (youtube frm tiawan)
Log In to reply
superrcflier March 7, 2013
Great video, excellent presentation, thanks for the plan. Just finish my building last night, waiting for electronics to be install it. Weight 200g so far, AUW with 1.3mAH 3s would be around 500g I'm guessing.
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 5, 2013
Good thing I'm building two at the same time learning from my mistakes. I didn't slide the wings together fast enough and got stuck with an in togo ,what do you think about gorrilla glue for this step.
Log In to reply
superrcflier March 7, 2013
You can use gorilla glue, personally I'd use 5min epoxy glue, so you still have plenty time to correction.
Log In to reply
marcosamartinelli March 5, 2013
Hi, Nice tuto, i love you Flitetest!

Does any of these motors work with this plane?

- Turnigy Park300 Brushless Outrunner 1080kv
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19033


- NTM Prop Drive Series 28-30A 750kv / 140w
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16229

Thanks.

Log In to reply
superrcflier March 7, 2013
I'd say no, you need something like those
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18968__Turnigy_D2836_9_950KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html
or if you want much more power I'd use this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18969__Turnigy_D2836_8_1100KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html
Log In to reply
jimft March 1, 2013
What are the dimension of the balsa wing joiner ?
Log In to reply
cloud9photos March 7, 2013
In the video Josh says the length is 10" but they do not directly mention the thickness. he did say the wing will be approximately 3 pieces of foam thick where it joins the fuse so I just assumed it would be 1/4" balsa cut to 10" I however didn't have any balsa laying around the house, but I have plenty of wooden paint stirrers from the home depot they happen to be 1" long and 1/4" thick so I just used that, it's a little heavier than balsa, but it's what I had in the garage and I don't think that little bit of weight will matter.
Log In to reply
PropsnWings June 14, 2013
If you look, the sticker is still on the balsa. It's 1x3/16
Log In to reply
superrcflier March 10, 2013
I did use same thickness of foam, I did try to push balsa as far as it goes until tight and draw line with the pen (remember balsa is soft and tips goes inside the wing will form between two foams), measured same length for the other wing and added fuse dimension.
Log In to reply
DStevens3800 March 20, 2013
Wanted to say thanks here as well as on my project post. So, thanks flitetest! I really do enjoy these tutorials and the planes I end up with. Great job! I look forward to whatever you have in the works next. Couple of you guys have been asking questions about all up weight, prop size, motor set up and stiffening this and that. So I thought I'd give my 2 cents. All up weight with Turnigy 3S 1300mah battery, 2826a 1250 kv NTM prop drive motor & Turnigy Plush 25 amp ESC and 9x6e APC prop (the Baby Blender setup per Josh B's specs located on that scratch build page) is 602g or 1lb 5.3oz with a taped color scheme and all the stiffening. The power set up is perfect for this plane, of course you could always go bigger. As far as stiffening I threw 2 extra, small size, bbq skewers to hold in the canopy, and 4 extra on the elevator stab and rudder. Also 1 on top of the elevator feathers and a chopped popsicle stick on the underside. Makes her rock solid. Hope this helps. Happy building.
Log In to reply
hhins March 27, 2013
I know a blue wonder 1300kv 3s 860mah 8" prop (approx 16oz thrust) would be under-powered but would it be at least flyable until I find something larger to purchase?
Log In to reply
gr1999 March 15, 2013
When will the kit be coming in the store?

Log In to reply
RCbacon April 22, 2013
My guess is that the kit will come to the store in a month or something like that :) Hope i helped :)
Log In to reply
Big_Car_Killa April 6, 2013
Hi guys,

When will this be available in a kit???

Cheers!
Log In to reply
RCbacon April 22, 2013
I belive that the kit will be avalible the closest month or something like that :) Hope i helped :)
Log In to reply
Ryan April 21, 2013
Has anyone thought of putting a glow engine on this plane? i am going to build one but i think all go electric as i am fairly new to this hobby, however id love to build a gas plane they are just way cooler and more authentic feeling to fly in my mind .the only issue i see is the weight as a glow engine is much larger but with out the battery it should even itself out reasonably and the front of the plane could be made with some hobby grade plywood for strength and to cope with the heat. any way its just a thought, if any one ha made a home made foamie with a glow engine id love to see it. once i get comfortable with the plane i just might try to myself.
Log In to reply
RCbacon April 22, 2013
Not to be a dream killer but a glow need cooling and i don´t think foam can hold so much weight :( Besides you have to have fuel to power the engine and fuel does also have some weight. I think it sounds intresting but i don´t think it will work :( There might be something i missed, let me know if i did ;)
Log In to reply
marcosamartinelli March 11, 2013
Hi all!

I built this TF 3D but it was way too heavy... with small motor (28) and 1350ma lipo its weight was 700grs.

When i tried to use a 35 motor and a 2200mah lipo the weight was more than 900grs.

My plane did not fly, it was donated to my daughter and now is transporting Barbies and Kens around the living room...

The foam board i used has 5mm and paper on both sides.

What is the aprox. weight of this model without electronics?


Log In to reply
RCbacon April 22, 2013
I don´t know the weight of the FT 3D but what i do know is that you have to have a smaller battery! I would use a 500 to 1000 mah 4s or 3s and the 28-26 ntm prop drive series motor flite test recommends :) Hope i helped you :)
Log In to reply
ripcurldog February 18, 2014
This is not true! I flew my first FT3D build with a 2200 mah 3 cel battery, with a park 480. It all depends on the motor that you use. Mine had so much power that the power pod was being ripped out of the fuselage (which I Now reinforce with gift card).
Log In to reply
serial0l0 March 18, 2013
This was my second ever scratch build. I built the FT Flyer last weekend and this one this weekend. I tried this one first without a metal straight edge if you can believe that and failed miserably. It made the FT Flyer easy to build in comparison though. Once that was done this one wasn't so bad. It did take an entire night though just to make the airframe. I'm not sure why I was so slow but I worked from about 8:30p to 4:30a...lol. I'm waiting in some z bend pliers, music wire and wheels to finish it up. Until then I have been flying the FT Flyer on this power setup and it is a rocket! It has unlimited vertical and I can hover it for a decent amount of time considering I've never really done any 3d. I'm just waiting for it to fold up in high G's but so far so good. Thanks Flitetest. I don't think I would have ever took the scratch build plunge without these videos.

BTW, I have no idea how Josh is able to make those super clean bevel cuts. The foam balls up on my blade and I end up chunking it out and then sanding it somewhat smooth.
Log In to reply
RCbacon April 22, 2013
I think Josh can do so clean bevel cuts because he has been in this hobby for 20 years or something like that :)
Log In to reply
SteevyT March 10, 2014
Us a drywall blade or razor like in the video. Get as little of an angle on it as possible (rather than trying to force it through at a 90 degree angle, try pulling it through with a 30 angle, or less if possible)
Log In to reply
Gambit April 17, 2013
I am a little new to this. I have purchased the Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.) motor. Is this going to be less powerful than the NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w. If so will I still be able to fly it?
Log In to reply
RCbacon April 22, 2013
The suppo motor have higher kv(kv=rotations per volt) so the prop will spin faster if you have a 3s but the NTM supports 4s batteries so you can get higher voltage(which results in more rotations) I would buy the NTM but the suppo will probably do the job :) Hope i helped :) If there is something you wonder about let me know ;)
Log In to reply
Stunt Man 169 April 26, 2013
I used this setup and it was way underpowered. The plane could barely get off the ground with full power. I recommend something larger like a park 450, just to be on the safe side. I ended up rebuilding the plane three times, each time making it lighter. But I still had no luck. I would use the park 450 sized motor or a NTM prop drive series 28-26 1200 kv/250 watts
Log In to reply
Gambit April 30, 2013
Thanks Victor and Stunt Man. Have the plane built looks like i will have to buy another motor and esc. Will the NTM prop drive series 28-26 1200 kv/250 watts work with all the bigger swapables? i can use the Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor for the smaller ones.
Log In to reply
Gambit April 30, 2013
And what prop are you using Stuntman?
Log In to reply
ripcurldog February 18, 2014
I print the plane at 110%, with a park 480 equiv., 30amp ESC, 2200 mah 3 cel, and I cover the plane with packing tape (the entire thing), and it has more power than I can ever use (if I did use all the power that I have available, im afraid the wings would be ripped off). It is an amazing plane!
Log In to reply
Kwindenhaag May 4, 2013
Ok - has anyone managed to build this with 5mm foam with double sided paper? It seems to make the wing VERY thick (25mm at the fuselage), and seems much heavier than expected. Need help before I charge forward on full build...
Log In to reply
fear4fun May 15, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
fear4fun May 18, 2013
Just a note, the middle line (of 5) on each of the wings should be marked as red line in the planes. In the video when Josh grabs the wing, the middle line is already scored so he can fold it back and do a double-bevel on it.
Log In to reply
sailorJohn March 1, 2013
Maybe a stick across elevator center where it is very thin

Log In to reply
PropsnWings June 14, 2013
I added a cut Popsicle stick to the underside and trimmed the rudder clearance for it. I felt the elevator was too flexible in this area.
Log In to reply
ccrawford August 31, 2014
Came here to say exactly this. The other thing i would add is consider using a metal gear servo in the rudder. I'd never broken a servo before, but then broke two on the rudder here because I used short, stiff control rods...when the rods don't flex, something has to give during those spectacular cartwheel crashes, and it was the plastic servo gear.
Log In to reply
rowedent July 2, 2013
is there a problem with the stonekap web site? the ft3d plans won't open.
Log In to reply
3Drichie May 22, 2013
I have also sent this as a question to flite test but they may not have time to reply to quickly so posting here as well. I am about to give building the FT 3D a go, can anyone tell me what the thickness of this board is in millimeters? I am in the UK and the only board similar to the stuff Josh uses is called "foam-cor" and its 5mm thick.
Log In to reply
RCbacon July 15, 2013
The thickness of the foam is 5 mm :)
Log In to reply
PrInCe June 8, 2013
Hi took me a while but i finally got my FT3D built yay, just need to sort my electrics out, i have lots of 3s 2200 battery's so want to use these, also looking to use my spare bixler v1 motor, believe it to be size 2620, 1900kv. with a turnigy plush 25A esc.

What size prop would i need for this application? if t can be done?
Log In to reply
RCbacon July 15, 2013
Take the biggest prop recommended for the motor! Its a 3d plane and with 3d planes you want much thrust! Maybe a bigger prop then recommended :)
Log In to reply
cosso10 June 27, 2013
what prop should I use for the NTM prop drive 28-26A 1200kv 250w
Log In to reply
RCbacon July 15, 2013
They recommend a 10x4.7 :)
Log In to reply
destroyer37 August 5, 2013
what motor shoul I buy...
- Turnigy 3530/14 1100Kv
- Turnigy prk450 1200Kv
- NTM Prop drive 28-26A
Log In to reply
Neelansh August 25, 2013
can you please tell me that what foam are you using is it depron(bio foam) or some other and also how did you put up the paper sheets on your foam and lastly what is the size(dimensions or thikness if you say) of the foam please answer :-)
Log In to reply
Neelansh September 3, 2013
pls help me out guys I live in India and we do not have dollar tree here so can I use depron ( bio foam) to make this plane and also what kind of paper should I use to put on depron to make the ailerons rudders etc. and is there any other method to make the hinges of aileron and rudder , elevator etc. by using depron pls reply
Log In to reply
TCJ4 September 4, 2013
I have a couple of Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motors I was wondering if this would be comparable to the Beef motor recommended.

Log In to reply
Neelansh September 6, 2013
can iuse a 30 amp esc with the other recommended electronics like the 500mah battery and the recommended motors

Log In to reply
jrbemis October 3, 2013
In this build process, the rudder and elevator are never glued into the fuselage. Instead there is a out of sequence set of steps to "harden" the elevator and rudder hinge joint before the is installed. These steps occur after the wing is installed at 26:00. Can you change where this segue occurs to a correct position then add the steps for glueing in the tail feathers. Thanks.
Log In to reply
Fred B October 12, 2013
This Comment Has Been Removed
clough42 August 28, 2013
I'm really loving this plane with a 3530-14 1100KV motor (HobbyKing Turnigy D3530/14 or RCTimer BC3530-14), an 11x5.5 prop and a 3s2200 battery.

I had to build in a little more structure so I could mount the battery back under the wing spar and it required a couple of coins glued to the tail to make it all balance. With this setup, it hovers easily and punches out like a rocket.
Log In to reply
JGadget January 3, 2014
How did you mount that motor, did you go directly to the firewall or use the supplied mount? also how did you compensate for the larger prop shaft, I got the same motor

Thanks!
Log In to reply
cottywoe October 22, 2013
Just bought the same hk motor what esc are you using? And do u have a pics with those mods posted anywhere?

Log In to reply
juanmas07 October 23, 2013
Which size of sheet should I use for printing? A3? Thank you!
Log In to reply
MarkusS October 26, 2013
Hi,
can i built this Plane with 3mm Depron? Or is a 5 mm Foam better?
Has anyone tried to built it with 3mm Foam?

Thank you
Log In to reply
artiom shevchenko October 30, 2013
3mm depron is very light, so it will perform better, but the building will not be that easy, and you will need some re-inforcements.
Log In to reply
Reinwar November 7, 2013
help!! i can't open the plan!!
Log In to reply
maddy November 12, 2013
hello, can u please help me how to read the dimensions on the i am new to this

Log In to reply
TDOL666 December 3, 2013
Gonna get some foamboard off ebay and try the versa wing, but this one looks awesome, you should make some smaller planes that still look good, we don't have much room to fly where I live and some smaller slow flyers would be great, I know this is relatively small and will hover if piloted correctly... probably not by me! Also maybe an EDF with a foamboard tube,using a hex or octagon?
Log In to reply
Omran August 1, 2013
Hi I have plotter when print full size it come very small can help me I need size of all part please
Log In to reply
TDOL666 December 3, 2013
you'll need to import the inches/cm scales into your plotter program and scale the whole design up to make those the right size
Log In to reply
nut4rc.air December 11, 2013
THE VIDEO FAILS TO SHOW HOW TO GLUE IN THE TAIL SECTION EFFECTIVELY WITHOUT MAKING A GLUE MESS. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Log In to reply
Hookdriver January 16, 2014
Another straight forward build with a fantastic end state. The only modification I made was to put a balsa spar doubler on the bottom of the spar joint. For most it wont be necessary but I was using some pretty soft balsa so I felt like it couldn't hurt. once the wings were in and set I just applied glue and slid the doubler in the fuselage from the front. Stiffened things up a whole bunch. To glue the tail in I slid the tail assembly in dry just like a test fit then back it out about an inch. Apply glue to the slots and slide back forward. I didnt slather it up with glue and it held like a champ. Four batteries of 3d thrashing around on a windy day and the entire airframe was rock steady. Really a solid design.
Log In to reply
Timelord101 January 25, 2014
How big of a field do you need to fly this?
Log In to reply
frogs84ss February 3, 2014
is there an issue with the pdf link? I can't download the plans
Log In to reply
RadioControlledNL February 8, 2014
yeah nice, i'm building this one at 65%!! can't wait to fly it!
Log In to reply
ripcurldog February 18, 2014
Ive built three of these 3D planes. The best one so far was printed at 110% of the tiled print size. I run it with a 480 equivalent motor, 30amp ESC and 3cel 2200mah battery (9*6 prop works great). The plane fly's better than my $250 store bought T28 Trojan (I can roll this 3D plane so fast compared to the Trojan). I have also used a light packing tape to cover the entire thing in a 'cheap laminate'. It protects the plane against soft crashes. You should also use a gift card to reinforce the power pod (where the skewer meets the pod/fuselage). Otherwise the power of the motor, combined with a heavy landing, can rip the foam from the skewer. If you watch the 'building tips' video on Flitetest, they show you how to do this. This scratch build is sooooo much more fun than the Trojan, and with the 480 motor, it has way more power than I have ever needed (seriously!). The best part is that if I crash it (and I have), I can build another one in two nights. I am now getting ready to build a new one, but with print size at 120%. The fuselage barely fits on the uncut foam board, but I think it will work okay (about 3mm of the very back/bottom will be cut off, but I dont think that will be an issue).
If you havent tried this plane, print the PDF plans at 110%, stick in a 480 motor, 30amp ESC, 9*6 prop and 2200 3cel battery, and I guarantee you will have a blast with it. Ive also designed my own landing gear option because I am not a fan of the Flitetest method (they buckle on harder landing too easy (the place that I fly has a rocky landing strip which beats up the plane on some landings).
Log In to reply
sr175 September 25, 2013
Was wondering where you are all placing your battery? In the power pod, under the pod under the spar ...
Log In to reply
ripcurldog February 18, 2014
I place mine in the power pod,somewhere between the front, and the middle of the pod. See my email below regarding the best set-up (110% print size for a 2200 3cel battery).
Log In to reply
MetalAki March 23, 2014
Can I just use the Hextronic motor
Log In to reply
NabilAsykar May 5, 2014
I dont understand about VG placement. How and where should i place it?
Log In to reply
DOOM May 6, 2014
I just did some reinforcements on my FT 3D and now it flys so beautiful. Thanks guys for this amazing plans and build video. After my blunt nose Versa, this is my second scratchbuild and I love it! Can´t wait to build more!
Log In to reply
RC Dad May 7, 2014
Have been away from flying for a year and from building for a little longer than that. Just ordered a speed build kit and 3 power combos from Altitude Hobbies. Going to use the kit as templates and my two sons and I are gonna make 3 of these 3D planes, then we will move on to the Spitfire and the Speed plane....excited to be getting back into the hobby again.

Flitetest was a big part of us getting into the hobby a few years ago. Am impressed with how far you have come. I love the podcast and the swappable series....Brilliant!!!!
Log In to reply
Damage June 22, 2014
What is the best way to glue in the Rudder/Horizontal Stab? In the video they say they want to wait until the wings are installed before gluing those in, but they never show it. Reason I ask, it's a lot to glue and a lot of positioning, I am worried the glue will setup before I get it positioned.
Log In to reply
ccrawford July 4, 2014
i just wiggled the fin/stab back a bit and shot a litle bit of glue in, then fit the two parts in place and then ran beads of glue along the joint. Seems to hold well.
Log In to reply
ccrawford July 4, 2014
This has been about the 7th or 8th FT plane I've built, and the build went better than any I've done to date...everything square and very nice looking plane. However, i went to fly it and even though I had my rates dialed way down, she was all over the place (and then into the ground about 30m downrange after takeoff, cartwheeling.) If this is your first "high performance" plane, beware. If it's your very first build, or you are relatively new to the hobby, I'd recommend another plane first. This one is a handful!
Log In to reply
Motocross and rc's August 17, 2014
What are the specs of the balsa
Log In to reply
tjmartin September 9, 2014
What is the best printing method for these plans? I have tried tiled and full and then poster but it seems the rear fuse has alignments issues along with both sides of the wings. I'm not sure if its my settings or if its the way the PDF plans are. I have to assume it is my settings as I have not seen anyone with the same issue in the article.
Log In to reply

Log In to leave comments