'How to' Tapered trailing edges.

by scottie | June 23, 2017 | (5) Posted in How To

This idea started way back at the start of 2014 with me showcasing it in ths article......

https://www.flitetest.com/articles/reinforced-control-surface-hinges

Since then,as with many of my idea's it has bounced around at the back of my mind niggling away for an answer,how to make trailing edges easily and consistantly.My build method has changed significantly over the last couple of years,some would say too a point where it is no longer viable but truth be told,for me,this hobby is firstly and always about the design,build and finish then secondly the flight experience......slightly backwards i know  :-)

So onto how it's done,well simply put,firstly with patience.This process produces great results but it will add days,yes days to your build so it's not really for people who are just wanting their models in the air quickly.

Foamboard as I have found can be compressed in 2 ways,either on one side,as in like the below picture showing the end of the fuselage to tail join.

or on both sides as in the below picture of the tail

And the means for such compression.

It's a simple enough idea,just 2 pieces of hard laminated wood joined with a piano hinge.The compression comes courtesy of 4 hand clamps,the secret is to leave it at least overnight for each piece you are compressing for the best results. (well certainly Westfoam)

Depending on how foam is inserted will depend on how the foam is compressed.too achieve the first picture,the foam is inserted too the hinge inside the clamp laying flat on one side.The top is then closed over and held in place and compressed too the desired height by use of the clamps.This will only compress one side of the foam giving a ramp like effect,ideal for finishing off the end of the fuselage as I did on my FT P51 or the underside of the wings trailing edge.

see example below.....

(this is actually the skin for the wingtips of an F4 but the process is the same)

the afore mentioned join between fuselage and tail.

the underside of the wing,fully closed off.

The other  use i find particularly  nice is too compress both side so the foam comes to an even point,ideal for single skin  tail surfaces.This time however,the foam needs to be held evenly in line with the hinge then both sides are closed together at once too clamp the foam in place.

This is the tail for the FT P51 

You can clearly see the difference along side a stock piece of foam.

The finished tail of the P51

And again on a Duster.

Something worth considering is this,the single piece of  foam has now been compressed but it is still the same amount of material so in theory it should be slightly stronger,have more rigidity but still weigh the same. Always a good thing ! 

Moving on,this is where it starts to get funky !If you are making a double skinned tail as I showed in my original article then this is where we come full circle....

take the two halves and once compressed as below.....

join the two together so the outer edges taper towards each other and sand the leading edge to a rounded profile,this would give a more air-foil shape

all that would be left to do is cut your hinge line and relief on both sides.

And just too recap a short video of me trying too explain all this on camera ......



Now you may be wondering why bother ?  well why not is all I can say ?  one idea leads to the next....

Imagine where we would all be if the founding members of FT thought why bother ?? and didn't !!


Thanks for stopping by.

Scottie.

COMMENTS

scottie on August 12, 2017
I've never tried any heat methods before but as you said,getting that consistent edge is the hardest part of trailing edges.I found that other methods I tried gave similar results but again when it came to gluing the wing shut I couldn't get the finish I wanted,hence this idea.
As for spring-back I assume you are meaning the foam returning too its normal shape or warping ?
So far I have not had any real issues with the exception of my current P40 project,it is a 1400mm w/s with double skinned tail that has warped slightly. Fortunately,both halves when joined will cancel out the warp and return the elevator to straight again .
As for losing the compression,so far none have ever done so.

cheers.
Log In to reply
planebreaker2000 on July 31, 2017
Great!
Log In to reply
scottie on August 1, 2017
Thanks

Log In to reply
tomh on January 14, 2018
I like it! does it hold shape weeks later, months later? Seems worth the effort though.
Log In to reply
scottie on January 23, 2018
Hi tomh,yes it does hold its shape.None of the models I have made using this technique have ever returned to normal size.
I can't say how well DTFB would work but West Foam has never let me down yet ,
cheers
Log In to reply
nickf on August 3, 2017
Thanks, really timely. I'm having ago at one of the nnerdnic designs that have tapered edges. He does his by removing foam for a bevel, but this looks much better (as you say) you end up with a very strong LE. Having had foam come in (hot glued) I am slightly concerned about then 'springing back' under heat!!
Log In to reply
scottie on August 3, 2017
Yeah I have seen his designs,in theory you could use something like my clamp to glue the TE of his wings,the thought had crossed my mind about how well it would work using one of his speed wing designs.
Do let me know how you get on .
cheers
Log In to reply
mikeporterinmd on August 11, 2017
Have you tried any methods with heat? I played with a sealing iron, but it was hard to get a clean, consistent edge. The advantage to heat and pressure might be a better seal with the paper and a hence a stronger laminate, and no possible spring-back. Thoughts?
Log In to reply

You need to log-in to comment on articles.


'How to' Tapered trailing edges.