I decided to get into the field of multirotors after a friend built his first Quadcopter. I was amazed by the precision of control he had over the aircraft and i wanted to test this out for myself.
I set out with the goal of having a good (small) quadcopter in my basket for £100. Having quickly ruled out the idea of a carbon fibre kit, due to budget issues,i decided to browse hobbyking for a cheap first quad.
Much to my pleasing, i found the HK 250 FPV racing quad in the international warehouse for under £60. The shipping was quite expensive though and all in all it arrived at my door for around £100; including the following that I ordered:
- Naze32 acro: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55819__AfroFlight_Naze32_Acro_AbuseMark_FunFly_Controller.html
- OrangeRX dsm2 w/failsafe http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20684__OrangeRx_R710_DSM2_Compatible_7Ch_w_Failsafe.html
- The Quad kit: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__52863__HobbyKing_Spec_FPV250_V2_Quad_Copter_ARF_Combo_Kit_Mini_Sized_FPV_Multi_Rotor_ARF_.html
The Transmitter I used was my usual one - The spektrum Dx6i
As the article title suggests, shortly after I built and maidened my quad, i wanted to jump straight in and get a longer frame to house FPV. The cheapest way i found to do this, was to buy the hobbyking Long Frame kit for the quad frame i had. Heres a link: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56663__HobbyKing_FPV250_Racer_Long_Frame_Upgrade_kit.html
When the kit arrived i was pleaseantly suprised. The parts seemed to be well machined carbon composite, and aluminium standoffs looked really good.
However.
although the kit slipped on to the orignal frame like a dream, screing it down was another story. I found that some of the standoffs didnt actually have threads in them, so the provided screws would simply fall out. Additionally, if one over tightened a screw, then the threads would very easily strip and reult in the screw also falling out.
The solution i found to this was to aqquire some long screws i had lying around, and found the thread gripped if it was screwed in far enough. As for the unthreaded ones, a drop of super glue i tohught would suffice.
Heres a view of the lovely red aluminium standoffs.
After a while with the upgraded quad, i felt performance was now lacking as there was a lot of added weight.
So I decided to go all out with a few $$$ and buy FPV and an upgraded power system.
The afro 12 amp escs ran lovely with a 3s and the stock motors, but I needed something with a little more power and bought the cheap Emax 1804 2480kv motors and some 5x4 props.
I also invested on some Predator v2 goggles pack.
Heres a list of what i bought:
- Predator v2 goggles + fpv pack: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28342__FatShark_PredatorV2_RTF_FPV_Headset_System_w_Camera_and_5_8G_TX.html
- Emax Motors: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__62751__Turnigy_1806_2280kv_Emax_Motor_Set_Of_4_CW_CCW.html
- 5x4 props: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__68701__Gemfan_5040_Multirotor_Propellers_One_Pair_CW_CCW_5X4_Black_.html
The new motors fitted on the arms a treat, just a couple of bolts holding each one on. Whilst on the subject, credit to the frame rigidity and strength. I have powered my quad full throttle into the ground and not once has any o the arms brokem, only a few cheap props. Heres a few pics:
The benafits of the upgrade frame are many. Firstly, there is a lot more freedom to put the battery where you prefer. You can have it at the back, in the frame, or situated on top which is where i have it, as this leaves the back free for my Fpv transmitter and reciever below it.
The battery strap is on the top, securing it nicely. This means there is room for esc wire son the bottom, and i have attempted to make it nice and tidy, with the aid of black elctrical tape.
The battery connector is a small jst one. I highly suggest replacing this, as the high amp draw from a 4s will almost certainly melt it. I found the XT60 is the best plug for the job, and it is very common on batteries these days.
Camera
For use with FPV i have the small Cmos camera on the front. This came with the Fatshark goggles, and also with all the power jack needed. The fpv gear is powered off a 2,3 or 4s balance plug. I mounted to camera point up slightly, to achieve a flat field of view when flying forwards. However this tends to make the pilot fly faster if you are not used to it, as you will tilt the quad forward more. Heres what mine looks like:
Finally, my video recording device for HD film is a mobius with wide angle lense. I was suprised i had absoulutly no jello effect, and it is secured in with a rubber band. This camera points straight forward as it doesnt need to be tilted upwards.
Here's a picture and video of my finished quad. And if anyone wants to know my PID settings on the Naze32 are all default, and i put it on high rates and HORIZON mode for enabling flips.
Thankyou and enjoy!
Thanks for sharing!
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