RAAF Roulettes PC-9

by pete stanford | May 26, 2016 | (6) Posted in Just Fun

Being a fan of Flite Test since it's beginnings, I've bought and built many speed build kits and all have flown great. But economic times are tough and it's very expensive to get these kits here to Australia. So I started buying foam board (FB) from Officeworks but at $14 AUD per sheet, this was proving to be costly as well. Thank goodness for ebay. I found a company in Sydney who sell 5mm foam board for $8 per sheet and the sheets are bigger than the others. The only down fall is that the paper doesn't peel off which then creates more challenges.

So now armed with a carton of FB, what to build. I've been scratch building in balsa and ply for many years so I was keen to try this in FB as well. In my earlier years I was a Security Police Dog Handler in the RAAF and I spent a few years at the RAAF Base at Sale in Victoria where the RAAF Roulettes display team are based. I spent many hours watching them come and go and have always wanted a model of the PC9 so it came to pass.

I'm a firm believer in the KISS (Keep It Super Simple) principle and so I started out looking for a suitable wing. This proved very easy as the Flite Test Mustang was pretty close so I downloaded the plans and built the wings in conventional manner.   As this is a well established and proven airframe, I then took the fuse and modified the plan by removing the belly intake.   I dont build my planes as swappables and hence I don't build the fuse in the standard A fold/B fold manner.   I built this in more of a convensional balsa style with two seperate sides, formers and top and bottom.

Then using the horizontal and vertical stabs from the plan for general sizing, I then cut out these parts in a much more PC-9 shape.

Next the turtle deck and top cowling.   I don't particularly like using poster board as it tends to crease and dent too easily so I decided to continue using FB.   Now as mentioned earlier, the problem with this particular FB is that it is just about impossible to remove the paper making it difficult to make smooth curves.   However going back to some other Flite Test methods, I found that by scoring numerous lines and opening them up with a paddle pop stick or BBQ scewer, you can make just about any shape.   The closer the lines, the tighter the curve.

The turtle deck was made in three different pieces.

It looks a bit rough on the inside but that is covered when the canopy is in place and afterall it was my first attempt at doing this.

Speaking of the canopy, again all FB, curved, pushed, shoved, trimmed and sanded until it looks like this.

It has a scewer at the front and a magnet at rear making it super easy to change batteries.   I'm running a Turnigy 2836 1100kv motor on a 2200 3S and 9x6 prop.   There's no rudder so bank'n'yank.   The whole airframe was brushed with Cabots Cabothane Clear polyurethane (I think similar to Minwax) and then painted with el cheapo rattle cans.   The decals were printed off my computer onto self adhesive label paper.   Flying weight is just on 800g (28 ounces).   Hand launch is a simple matter of pointing it up at 45 degrees, give it about 3/4 throttle and let her go.   Flying is I imagine about the same as the original FT Mustang.   Certainly it is every bit as good as the FT Spitfire I had a couple of years ago.   Looking back I should have put landing gear on it and the horizontal stab needs to have a larger chord so that it has more stability authority.    And with these, it will then lend itself more to having a rudder as well.   The next one will also have a slightly more powerful motor.

So there you go.   Take a subject you like, find a known airframe which is close and/or can be modified and don't be afraid to really push the boundaries of FB.   Also, the internet, particularly Google Images is your best friend.    Just write in exactly what you want.   In this case I literally typed in "PC9 plan views" and I got heaps of them.   Then I typed in "RAAF Roulettes" and again heaps of good colour photos showing every angle. This makes painting and adding details very easy.   With these types of models, the more little details you can add, the better the illusion of scale.   In this case, the paint job, the roundels and the scrolled 'R' on the tail make it stand out as a Roulette.   But smaller details such as the exhaust stubs make it stand out as a Pilatus turbo-prop.   Do a half decent paint job and you have a cheap, strong, very tough stand off (a long long way) scale model.   Here in Australia just about everyone recognises the RAAF Roulettes and its the same with this model, not one person has asked me what it is because they all know.

Next up is building one with retracts.  Stay tuned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

COMMENTS

damouav on June 25, 2016
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, Oi, Oi, Oi...

Very nice build. When I learn to fly better, I will give this a go and give the show off's at RAAF East Sale a run for there money ;)
Log In to reply
pete stanford on July 1, 2016
You'll have to run very hard. They've been performing for a looooong time and are pretty darn good.
Log In to reply
clebervalerio on June 24, 2016
wathis the planer?
Log In to reply
pete stanford on July 1, 2016
The real plane is the Pilatus PC9. The model is a mash up of the FT Mustang model modified to look more like a PC9.
Log In to reply
WeeVikes on June 4, 2016
That is stunningly beautiful! I've always loved the PC-9.

Congrats on a wonderful build!

Log In to reply
pete stanford on July 1, 2016
Thanks very much for your comments. Although I've built quite a few of the FT kits, this was my first scratch build in foam board and I learnt a lot. Shortly there should be another article on my Spacewalker build and you will see in it that I have found even better ways of bending and folding FB.
Log In to reply
Rod Muller on June 3, 2016
A great article and a fantastic looking plane. You are right, the little details really make it stand out. Are you planing on posting a flight video?
If you are using foam board from https://www.foamboards.com.au you can get the paper off by dampening the area you want to remove and let it sit for a while or, if you are like me and want it done "NOW", just rub it very gently with a damp cloth or finger, just be careful not to press hard enough to dent the foam.
Log In to reply
pete stanford on June 3, 2016
It was actually a company called Draftex.com.au Now I don't bother to try and take the paper off. I just use butt joints and then sand them smooth. I figure if the paper isn't going to come off when pulled at, then it's pretty much on there for good. I don't know if this makes it a better quality foam board than DTFB but it does feel a bit more solid. It may even be a little heavier but I haven't done a comparison.
Log In to reply

You need to log-in to comment on articles.


RAAF Roulettes PC-9