Stretching your building dollars!

by Hookdriver | December 21, 2013 | (12) Posted in How To

 

 

Hello fellow Flite Test junkies! This my first article so feel free to comment good and bad. That is how we all get better at this stuff.

As we are well aware this hobby can be as expensive as we make it. In an effort to help stretch my hobby budget I have come up with a few small ideas that have saved me a few dollars here and there. 

My first tip is workbench protection. Selfhealing cutting mats are fantastic.....but fantastic comes with a price. I needed some masonite for another project I was working on so I bought an extra sheet. It can be purcahsed at any home improvement store. There are a few different types. The one with the white shiny coating on one side works the best. It reflects the light on my work bench well and also allows the hot glue to peel loose. it is still a good idea to use a stripe or two of clear packing tape under glue joints with a lot of squeeze out. the razor saw in my picture is what I use to remove the globs of hot glue that get stuck to the board. a couple sideways swipes and the board is free of hot glue worts. At about $8.00 for a four foot by eight foot sheet it is a very economical form of workbench protection. when it gets chewed up send it to the rubbish bin and slide a new piece in. A fine tooth wood saw will cut it, but I just use a utility knife to score the brown side and then crack it. Finish the cut on the white side with the utility knife and you are all set. 

My next idea is a way to extend the useful life of number 11 X-acto blades. One blade will usually last me through one complete aircraft cutout. If you look at your blade when you are done it is possible to see where the friction of the foamboard has begun to remove blade material and dull it. Only the upper half is worn because the rest of the blade has been unused.

********************SAFETY WARNING****************

IF YOU ARE GOING TO ATTEMPT THIS METHOD SAFETY GLASSES ARE A MUST!!!!

I use a pair of linemans' pliers and break the upper half of the blade off and it is good for another kit cutout. It is absolutely essential that safety procedures be followed to do this. 

1. Wear your safety glasses! This cannot be stressed enough

2. Lay the knife with the blade in it on the bench. It cant fall and cut someone if it is already down. 

3.Use you pliers to hold the blade where you intend to break it.

4.Lay a towel over the entire operation just to help contatin any fragmentation.

5. Rotate the pliers upward until the blade snaps. The idea is that if anything does fragment it goes away from you not towards. 

 

The younger readers should absolutely have help for this method. The cool part is that it turns 100 blades into 200. I have been using this method for a while and have not had any exploding blades or other issues. 

My next tip is born of necessity rather than frugality.There are no hobby shops close enough to jump in the car get to quickly. When I was building the FT Speedster I needed wire for landing gear. Once again the home improvement store turned up my solution. A three foot piece of 1/8 inch steel welding rod is about $2.00 . works very well. The same linemans pliers that use to for the X-acto trick work great for this as well.

 

I am fairly certain my last suggestion had already been done a million times before but I figured it wouldn't hurt to mention it. Instead of using white poster board I use colored poster board. I let the kids pick the colors. it works out well for all of us. They get the color they want on their airplanes, and I get the contrast to help maintain orientation. The other thing I use to add marking is sharpie markers. The black stripes aren't tape they are sharpie. Go easy and dont try to color through the paper and they will work great. 

 

In closing I would like to thank all of the folks here at flight test and all of the guys out at the flying fields bringing the new generation into the hobby. It only takes a few minutes of attention from a patient mentor to create the next r/c addict. 

COMMENTS

Widkin on January 22, 2014
Hey, good tips, especially the one with the exacto blades. I also don't like how quickly they are dulled by foamboard. Making a new sharp edge like you do would seem more than adequate for simple straight cuts. Good tip on safety too, never to be taken lightly!
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alibopo on January 22, 2014
Regarding blades, some time ago I invested in a device called an Anysharp - advertised as The Worlds Best Knife Sharpner. It does a grand job on my kitchen knives - a scarily good job! It seemed obvious to try it on my exacto/scalpel blades and it works a treat. A couple of draws through the device and the blade's back to razor sharpness. The only time I replace blades is if I break them. Over the last 6-8 months I've used maybe 6 blades. When I first bought my Swann Morton scalpel I stocked-up on blades, expecting to go through them quite quickly - at this rate I'll never use them all. Sometimes a product does exactly what it says on the box. So far, the Anysharp is a winner for me.
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gilcd85 on January 23, 2014
Thanks for the tip alibopo! I just ordered 100 more #11 knives - I've been going through them like crazy.
I'm definitely going to give anysharp a try!
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rorak on January 22, 2014
I use a extra fine diamond sharpener that came with my knife sharpening kit to do my x-acto blades, I think it works great, I've been using the same blade for over a month.
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rperry2000x on January 22, 2014
Another tip for landing gear wire. Go to you local hardware or home improvement store and buy a bundle of survey flags (they are wire stakes about 15-16" long with little flags on them). Just rip the flags off and they make great landing gear.
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royce.meredith on January 23, 2014
I've used survey flags for pushrods as well. The only issue I found was that the metal couldn't always handle z bends. When I first got the pack the first few stakes would take the bends no problem however as I got further into the bundle they would snap right at the first 90 degree bend. I'm not sure if its metal inconsistency or what. Just an FYI
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sailorJohn on January 23, 2014
I been using flags for a while without problem, and self healing cutting boards are super as long as you don't lay a hot glue gun down on them ,causes the board to warp. Using mdf or Masonite gets a lot of dirt in your work cause a lot of your cuts are on the same spot, especially when working with tape. The sliding razor knives work better for cutting form board than exacto blades and are much cheaper, then use hobby knives only for small cuts.
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Hookdriver on January 22, 2014
Good call on the survey flags. That wire is pretty stiff as well. I am going to check into the anysharp this week. Sounds like that thing works well. It cant be stressed enough about the safety bit. When trying to shorten the blades BE CAREFUL. Thanks for the comments guys
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Robr0924 on January 22, 2014
Great ideas thanks for sharing
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thejosh108 on January 22, 2014
I like the masonite idea and the blades, might just try both of them. On the landing gear though, I do use marking flags for little planes, as it seems to be just as stiff as music wire of the same size. but for bigger ones I had to get the thicker 1/8th" music wire from an electronics store. I tried using steel rod from the hardware store but, it was far to bendable. How big are the planes you fly with your landing gear and dose it bend on landing?
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Hookdriver on January 23, 2014
The welding rod is 1/8 in diameter. They call it welding rod but it is just mild steel in the assorted steel rack at the local lowedepot. I have used it on the ft-3d and the ft speedster. I fly with 2200 mAh batteries so my airplanes are usually on the heavy side. The kids smooshed the speedster in a few times and the gear held up great.
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Hookdriver on January 23, 2014
I found another great source for workbench protection. If there is an ikea near you pop in and grab a three pack of plastic cutting mats. They are 18x24 inches or maybe a little smaller. They work great. Same idea as the mdf. Once they destroyed replace them. I got a three pack for the kitchen and "borrowed" one for the bench. They were a couple bucks, less than five if I remember right. The masonite does a great job, but as sailor john said it can put dust into tape if you are doing a lot of tape work. The cheap cutting boards will help fill the gap.
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xpilot on February 3, 2014
Coat hangers may work for landing gear. Some may be better than others!
I am going to use i/8" masonite with the rough side up, and put a layer of clear packaging tape over it first. Thanks for the ideas list so far.
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Hookdriver on February 8, 2014
Start saving broken props! They are perfect sharp edged squeegees for hot glue. The fact that they aren't foam and that they are fairly rigid makes them awesome to get that perfect feathered edge. The length helps when making repairs to aircraft that are already together. Happy Building and Flying!
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Hookdriver on February 8, 2014
It would seem I have every "bendy" coat hanger that was ever made. My landings are average...some great...some not so great. Every test flight I did with the coat hanger gear was not very confidence inspiring. The welding rod was more rigid and provided just enough spring. Survey flags were about the same as the rod. Of course nothing will replace good old fashioned music wire, but it never seems to make it into the cart when I mail order and the LHS is a bit of a drive. Keep the suggestions coming guys!
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Stretching your building dollars!