PDF to Laser Conversion (Corel Draw)

by cryan | June 27, 2016 | (1) Posted in How To

In this article, I will show you how to convert a PDF file into a file that a laser can use. As far as I know, this workflow should work for any brand of Laser. It should be noted that some steps may vary, as each laser is different. I will be explaining my workflow using an Epilog Helix Laser.


Things to Have

A laser

Corel Draw

PDF to Convert 

Experimenting Attitude

 

Step One: Create a new document

If you have ever used Corel draw before, you should be familiar with this screen. However, I want you to take note of a couple things. The first thing is the Width/Height. This should be the Width/Height of your laser. My laser bed is 24 inches wide, by 18 inches high. The second thing to take note of is the primary color mode. Use RGB. You can use another color scheme if you want, but my tutorial will be using RGB, as it is the "Language" of the Epilog Lasers. I believe Gravograph uses the same system. 

 

Step Two: Import Your PDF

Go to File -> Import 
Or press Ctrl+I

Select your file and press Import

Import your text as Curves

Place your object in the scene, but avoid the Print area

Note: If your file has multiple pages, each page will import on a separate page. To avoid this, you can import one page at a time (tedious) or simply import them all. You can toggle between pages in the lower Left. Select the file and move it away from the import location before toggling between windows, as Corel will place each page on top of one another. Continue until you can see each page. If you keep the files away from the actual document write area, they will follow you between pages, but once it is inside the write area, it stays on that page. Something to take note of.

 

Step Three: Delete Extra Lines and Adjust.

Self-explanatory. Delete anything extra, ie the FT logo and scale. It just saves time later. If all the lines are solid, go to step 4. If they are not solid, ie dashed, as in the new FT plans, delete the dashed lines and redraw them solid in the original color. Corel-Draw has a nice snap to node feature that makes this step pretty easy. Delete the middle section of dashes, leaving only the two end points, then draw a straight line between them. It should snap in place, and allow precision placement.

 

Step Four: Fix Lines

Select EVERYTHING (I mean it, select everything, this is critical.) Then double Click on the following icon, in the bottom right.

 Change the Width To Hairline

Click OK.

Double Click the following Icon, It should be next to the Outline Color Button

Click the No- Fill button. It is the one Furthest to the Left

It should confirm that "The object has no fill" in the center of the page. Once you see that, click OK again.

 

Step 5: Fix the Colors

This is one of the easiest parts, as Corel has a built in feature. 
Go to Edit -> Find and Replace -> Replace Objects

Click Replace a Color then Next

Click Find, a Dropdown will come down, Click the eyedropper, 

 

Then Click on the First color you need to replace. I usually do Black First. 
The issue we are fixing here is that the color is not 100% the color it seems, just really close, too close to actually see. So always do this, just in case. Select the Replace With dropdown, and select more.
Make sure you have the RGB model, and set the codes to:
R=0
G=0
B=0 

Press OK

Change the "Replace colors used as" to Outlines. If you skip this, nothing useful will happen.

 

Press Finish, Then Replace All. Repeat Step 5 for each color, likely 3, changing the RGB code for each color.


For Red:
R=255
G=0
B=0 

For Cyan (Light Blue):
R=0
G=255
B=255

For Black (as reference)
R=0
G=0
B=0

All parts should now have the correct colors. Simply orgainze your parts to fit on the page and print.

If you are interested in a tutorial for Laser Setup using different powers, please comment, and I can attempt to do a walkthrough for Epilog Lasers. However, you may be able to find a walkthrough in the manual of the manufacturer.



Credit:
For Thumbnail
http://kingofwallpapers.com/laser/image-004.php?pic=/laser/laser-004.jpg 

COMMENTS

Scrapbuilder on July 3, 2016
i just use an online pdf to dxf converter and it works for my school's universal laser systems machines
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cryan on July 3, 2016
I have never tried direct printing a dxf before, as I tend to stick with what I know, but that knowledge could come in useful. I'll have to look into it. Thanks!
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Scrapbuilder on July 4, 2016
if it's important, we use ashlar vellum cobalt on the laser cutter
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Truenative on June 4, 2017
I have successfully imported a set of plans for our epilog and have adjusted the line segments to cut. I'm curious how I should handle the score lines, B fold and C fold lines that look like they crack easily in the build videos. is there a setting so light that I can cut only the top layer of paper.

I'm working in an educational setting and cutting a large number of Mini-Sparrows for a JROTC camp this summer. Any help would be appreciated.
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Brian Bray on February 11, 2019
I am a teacher at the beginning of this process. I welcome any other educators and other experts to contact me and coach me. mrbrianbray @ gmail.youknow, five four one, five two one, 1213 voice/text. Please and thank you.
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CinderGuardian on June 6, 2017
This is a fantastic tutorial! Do any of you know an easy way to cut each color at a different power level?
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Truenative on June 19, 2017
I used color mapping to designate the score cuts. On our 60 watt Epilog laser.
I used about 3%-5% power, 94% speed and 450 Frequency to make score lines. My students then use the gift card method to go over the score lines, making them as deep as needed for each step.

Hope this helps
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omid.b on July 2, 2018
Hi.I'm doing all the steps. But I do not succeed and the software gives the error "file is corrupted" . What is the cause?
sorry for my poor English
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PDF to Laser Conversion (Corel Draw)