Are you ready to advance beyond folded foamboard wings?
Hotwire cutting is the next step for many builders, and it's not as difficult as it may seem. I find it quicker and easier than folding foamboard. It's also much more accurate, and cheaper if you don't have access to Adams foamboard.
You don't need a fancy power supply, I use a 3S or 4S Lipo depending on how wide my wing is. You don't need fancy wire either, I use stainless steel fishing wire, 40kg breaking strain, and a simple pine wooden frame.
The trickiest part is making the cutting templates. This article explains a quick, cheap and easy method using metal window flashing. It's thin aluminium, readily available from hardware stores, and can be simply cut with scissors.
1. Choose an airfoil
Do an internet search for the airfoil you want and copy the image onto your computer. Good airfoils to look at are:
Clark Y - good all round airfoil for powered planes and slope soarers
RG15 - thin and semi symmetrical for gliders. The Clark Y of the glider world.
Sipkill - has some reflex in the rear section, specially designed for flying wings
2. Print it at the right scale for your wing.
I use the scale option in my printer window and adjust the value until the print comes out at the right size.
3. Glue the airfoil print to the template material
Spray adhesive works well here
4. Cut out the airfoil with scissors
Do Not use your partner's prized sewing scissors! Cheaper scissors will do the job just fine.
5. Poke holes for the holding pins
I use 5 large pins to hold the templates in place.
And there you have a cheap, accurate and durable temlpate, which will let you cut beautiful perfect airfoils out of any sort of foam. I use yellow XPS insulation foam. Blue or pink insulation foam is the same stuff.
Here are instructional videos covering template making, hotwire bow and power setup and an arty closeup video of the process.
Here are the maiden flights of two planes built using hotwire cut wings
Good luck and I encourage you to give hotwire cutting a try. It's very rewarding and easier than it looks.
More info here
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http://www.rcsoaring.com/rcsd/RCSD-2008-11.pdf
I build it once an it worked wel, after some experimenting.
efbe
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This I'm going to try - the aluminum. So far I've been fixated on formica - since I have it and a scroll saw.
Also, a question if you don't mind. Have you tried to make a tapered wing? I've taken a stab at it and it is tricky getting the short tip chord not to melt while cutting the longer cord of the root. Any tips?
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1) use as low teperature of the wire as possible (this applies also to symetric wing, but it is even more important here) -- you still do not need a fancy power supply, just warry the distance between alligator clips (shorter the distance, higher the temperature).
2) cut in two people while using the markers (one is reporting the markers and the other one tries to follow the best he/she can). This did not work for me as well as I liked (it is rather hard to have the constant speed of cutting on both ends, which results in a bit wavy surface), so in the end, I made a gravity wire cutter, which really solved the problem.
Anyway, thanks apnewton for the aluminium tip, I will test it. So far, I always used a plywood, since it is not conducting well (and therefore not cooling the wire at the template contact), but a thin aluminium sheet seems reasonable, as its thermal capacity is low. And it would save a lot of hassle with sanding the plywood to have a really smooth wire movement.
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Here are my Pictures:
http://www.kopterforum.de/gallery/album/1947-delta-wing-bau-schritt-f%C3%BCr-schritt/
http://www.kopterforum.de/gallery/album/1947-delta-wing-bau-schritt-f%C3%BCr-schritt/?st=50
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9y-qBoAzX3E
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William
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