Flink

by stratosonic | August 2, 2015 | (13) Posted in Projects

OVERVIEW:

The Flink is an aerobatic scratch built foam board airplane. The Flink is roughly influenced by the Wattage Mad Max kit. The Flink is quite capable at aerobatics but can also be pretty tame with the control rates dialed down. 

The Flink uses classic Flitetest build techniques but I would consider it an intermediate build at minimum. The short moment arm of the nose section makes achieving a satisfactory center of gravity (CG) a bit of a challenge. Build the tail light and place all of the electronics as far forward as possible. The nose could also be extended slightly to place the motor farther forward.

The wing design is based on the FT3D wing. Other than the planform, the biggest change was the spar. Instead of sandwitching the spar (a paint stir stick) between the two foam spars, I replaced the center section of the lower foam spar with the paint stir stick. Although not very scientific, my testing involved performing full speed dives and then pulling up with full elevator. So far so good!

Oh, and the name. Flink means "nimble" in German... or so I am told (by Google translate).


SPECS
Wingspan: 36"
Length: 26.5"
Weight (as build, ready to fly): 19oz


SUGGESTED PARTS:
Motor: 2212 1000kv
ESC: 30A
Servos: 9 gram (or possible 5 gram)
Prop: 9x5
Battery: 1600mah 3S 

For the motor and ESC, I used this set from Banggood:
http://www.banggood.com/XXD-2212-MotorZTW-AL30A-Brushless-Motor1045-Propeller-p-85721.html

For the servos, I just used some extras that were laying around. That meant 9 gram servos for the rudder and elevator and a pair of old 6.2 gram servos for the ailerons. It may be possible to use 5 gram servos all around but I have not tested with that size.

The plane uses two sheets of Dollar Tree foam board. Also, you will need a piece of wood for the wing spar. I used paint stir stick about 10 inches in length.


PLANS:
Flink Plan Part 1
Flink Plan Part 2

Tiled plans
Flink Plan Part 1 (Tiled)
Flink Plan Part 2 (Tiled) 


BUILD VIDEO:


FLIGHT VIDEO:

This is the video of the maiden flight. The wind was blowing at approximately 10 mph but the Flink handles it just fine. Not a single click of trim needed.


BUILD PICTURES:

Fuselage cut out:

 

The angle of the upper sides of the fuselage are set by the triangle guages (included on the plans). The point of the triangle should be lined up with the fold.

 

 

Picture of the fuselage profile:

 

 

Extra supports added to the fuselage to strengthen the wing and landing gear skewer holes:

 

 

 

 

Rudder and elevator linkage configuration. The servos could also be mounted from the inside to provide a smaller profile.

 

 

 

The Wattage Mad Max. This is the inspiration for the Flink.


FINAL THOUGHTS

The design presented here is version two of the Flink. In the first version, I tried to design a wing with a curved upper and lower camber rather than the folded design you see here. After attempting several flight tests, it was very apparent I needed a new wing (in other words, deep stalls resulting in slamming straight into the ground). While this proved the durability of the airplane, I decided that I should go with a proven wing design and therefore based it on the FT3D. The only other change to the plane was to make the rudder larger so the Flink can maintain knife edge. 

The Flink has proven to be a fun flying airplane. Although I am not a great aerobatic pilot by any means, it has handled all the manuevers that I have thrown at it. The motor and prop combination that I am using allow it to climb out very well. It is quick in flight, although I wouldn't say it is fast. It slows down nicely for landing, too. Since the Flink has no diahedral, I would not recommend it for the beginner. Someone with a little more experience should have no problems flying it at all.

Leave a comment if you decide to try building the Flink or have any questions. Thanks!

COMMENTS

Miracle Air on August 6, 2015
This is cool! I haven't seen anything like it. Great design and great presentation.
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stratosonic on August 7, 2015
Thanks!
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winglet on August 6, 2015
A really really nice article and airplane! Nice that you went to the trouble to do the build video too. Thank you! I will be building one.
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stratosonic on August 7, 2015
Great! Let me know if you run into any issues with the plans or the build.
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JamesWhomsley on August 7, 2015
Nice article! I like how you took the time to make a build video. Very professional, just like the FT crew :D
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caleb_rc on August 7, 2015
Awesome plane! Very unique! Looking forward to building this one once I get a chance. Thanks for sharing!
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udo789 on August 7, 2015
Well done!
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Tri blades on August 9, 2015
Looks good
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winglet on August 9, 2015
Well, just set down to print the plans and get started. Opps! Any idea on how I can tile the plans? Can't remember.

Thanks anyone.
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stratosonic on August 9, 2015
I usually use Adobe Acrobat to print out tiled plans. When you select print from the menu, on the print dialog there will be an option for Poster. But, to make it easier, I just added the tiled plans to the article.
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winglet on August 9, 2015
Thanks for adding the tiled plans. Super!
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rongrassl on August 16, 2015
How do you cut & clear those nice grooves for the 90 Deg bends in the foam? I'm a beginner flying a slo stick and a Bix3 so far. This will be my first scratch build attempt. I ordered the motor kit/battery from bangood.
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stratosonic on August 16, 2015
Once you have made the 50% score cuts, fold the foam back away from the cut to "break" the 50% cut the rest of the way through the foam. With the foam folded back just start picking away at the foam in the groove. Sometimes the foam will come out in a single piece but sometimes you will have to pick out little bits. If there are little bits of foam still in the groove, I will usually use the end of a BBQ skewer to scrape the groove clean. Hope this helps.
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rongrassl on August 17, 2015
There are no actual dimensions printed on the plans. I started cutting out the tiled layout, but I suspect that I used the wrong scale somehow. (Seems too large). I printed the tiled plans on my cannon pixma mg6220 at 100% scale in poster mode and have started cutting out and taping the pieces together. Please give me one 1:1 dimension that I can measure, to be sure I have the size correct. Perhaps the height of the vertical stabilizer?
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stratosonic on August 17, 2015
The rectangles in the horizontal row located below the name (upper left corner of the plans) are 1 inch wide. I should probably label those. :)
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rongrassl on August 17, 2015
OK, I got the 1 inch rectangles, Set printer to normal, portrait mode. 100% size. but... I can't get all the alignment marks to print. About 1/8 inch of ink on each page right side will not print. Even with margins set to zero. I'm printing from the default print settings in Firefox. So... I right clicked on the doc and hit "save page as" & got the pdf version. Opened that in acrobat reader and it will now print very nearly correctly with all the alignment marks. (Seems to be very slightly reduced in size, about 0.98" to the inch). Should be good enough! Thanks for your help!
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rongrassl on August 18, 2015
I did some hunting on this site & found this to be helpful for making the templates:
http://flitetest.com/articles/make-reusable-templates-from-plans
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Planiac01 on September 3, 2015
Sorry for asking but what do you use to draw out the plans? I would love to do my own scratch build plans but I am not sure how. Thanks!
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stratosonic on September 7, 2015
I used Sketchup to draw the plans. There are video tutorials on this site that will walk you through the process.
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Planiac01 on September 7, 2015
Thank you so much!
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Flink