FREE PLANS (version 1 - shorter, slightly tail heavy):Tiny Trainer Bixler Nose
UPDATE (version 2 - longer, can be nose heavy): Tiny Trainer Bixler Nose V2
I'm very new to the whole scratch building thing. This is, in fact, the very first plan that I've done. Yay!
UPDATE: After several tests, Version 2 flies best if you want a very stable experience. :D
Version 1 would give you a more tail heavy experience, so I left it in the article for anyone who might be interested in that. :D
Background:
I live in the Philippines. And quite frankly, this hobby of flying isn't exactly that popular. So hobby shops tend to have very few stock on many items. Smaller propellers tend to be on very short stock. Since I'm still learning how to fly, I wanted to make a pusher style plane. Having a hard time picking a design, I decided to make a fusion of sorts. Hence, the Bixler-style nose for the FT Tiny Trainer.
My plans are based on modifi's article: http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-tiny-trainer-modified
So please, go check him out!
Instructions are simple, if you're familiar with how to cut out and assemble Flite Test plans then this should be a no brainer. :D
But for those who are unfamiliar:
Black - cut through
Red - 50% score cut
Blue - reference lines
If you haven't already, make the fuselage, tail, and wings (either one should work fine) of the FT Tiny Trainer:
http://flitetest.com/articles/flite-test-tiny-trainer
Version 1:
Version 2:
Let's get started!
(Note: All pictures are of Version 1. Version 2 is assembled the exact same way, so don't worry :D)
Step 1:
Cut out all the pieces and let's start with the biggest piece.
Before folding the "B" fold, glue into place the nose reinforcement pieces and the power pod rectanglular pieces on to the reference marks.
Step 2:
Glue the "B" fold like how you would the Glider Nose of the Tiny Trainer.
Step 3:
Glue the top piece, make sure you have the orientation right. Otherwise the holes for the servo leads won't line up. Make sure you glue on the foam, not the paper.
Step 4:
Glue the canopy cover. I designed this to open up so you can access the electronics.
(Please note that this nose is the prototype version. But is more or less going to come out the same)
Start by cutting out the piece, placing score and bevel cuts, and peeling the inner layer of paper. This is important so you can form the foam to the curves of the canopy.
I suggest reinforcing the joints by making a hot glue hinge and then adding tape on top of the hinge.
Start at the bottom, glue the little tab i made to the bottom of the Bixler Nose. This will act as your anchor. Then glue up to the tip of the nose ONLY.
Step 5:
Lastly, you can make a tape lock for the canopy and cut out the "T" ventilation holes. I made three locks in mine. One on top, two at the sides.
Step 6:
Use BBQ skewers to fix everything in place
Step 7:
Place the power pod at the back. I haven't placed any reference holes for this because I'm not yet sure what the angle should be like. This is where a little trial and error will have to take place. I'm using a single BBQ skewer here (the lower one) to anchor the power pod and a rubber band to fix the angle. The upper one isn't attached to the power pod, and will be used to mount the wing.
UPDATE: I ended up gluing the power pod to a permanent angle. After a few crashes, the holes get bigger and allows the propeller to hit the fuselage. :\ Something you might want to consider. :) If you want it to remain swappable, try using some giftcards as hard points! I've seen several articles about how you can go about that. :D
You should be able to use a 5 or 6 inch prop for this - I recommend a 6 inch though. :D
Step 8:
Mount the wing.
UPDATE: if you're using Version 1, make sure you line up the TRAILING EDGE of the wing to the rear of the Bixler Nose.
And that's it. Just plug your battery and fly!
EDIT:
I uploaded here the Version 2 of the Bixler Nose! See the top of the article. Same steps to assemble. I solved the CG by making the nose an extra 2 inches longer. I used a 3s 1000mAh and it became slightly nose heavy, but flew SO much better. :D
Thanks guys! Have fun flying! And God bless you! :D
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But I can give some of my own tips. After printing the PDF file and taping the pages together, cut them out of the paper before placing them on the foamboard. This will allow you orient each piece in such a way that's most economical for your foamboard. Also make sure you give some allowance as you cut the plans out of the paper - don't cut on the lines themselves just yet. This will allow you to see the lines a lot clearer as you actually do cut the foamboard already.
I can't think of anything else at the moment, but I hope I helped. Have fun! :)
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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1168464943170972&set=a.461881210496019.127958.100000224330228&type=1
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r8nZUe8ze4iA_hgRitcEj-uPj4JA6km2/view?usp=sharing
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