In this video, I discuss what I have learned with regard to basic symmetrical tricopter and t-copter design. I show how the tricopter and the t-copter are the same from the flight controller's perspective, and from the perspective of a symmetrical build design. I also show how to identify the proper rear motor position (via rear boom length) for given front motor positions. Oh..and I show how how this T-Copter calculator works just a well for tricopters...and how it validates my "circular" logic of tricopter symmetry.
http://lloydhassell.brinkster.net/rcgroups/t-copter%20dimensions%20calculator.html
I am still designing my tricopter, and you can find my design log at:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2051645
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
It made me realize that the tail boom on my tri is way to long, and thus the CG is completely wrong.
You saved me a lot of headaches man,thanks again!
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
I am currently building one of Davids tricopters from scratch and this video did answer some questions I had about Davids design as well as general designs. I did wonder what the big deal was to the further spread of the front motors due to using the 1/2 inch square booms.
This is my first tri copter build and I chose Davids because of its simplicity and it just plain works very well. I am not straying to far from the inted plans as I intend to write an article about it. I think I am going to go ahead and notch the front arms where the ''stopper'' bolts engage to bring the arms back to 120 degrees and restore asymmetry and the ''spirit'' of Davids design. I dont think it is necessary to do this and still have a great flying Tri just trying to keep it simple and to specs.
Anyway......great video and thanks for your time in making it and providing the information to the masses!
Brett Hays
Log In to reply
You can't go wrong with David's design. Too many people are flying it to argue with! : )
Are you cutting your own body, or buying the pre-cuts? My first thought on restoring the build to true 120° front arms would be to simply move the location of the "stopper" bolt slightly, but notching the arms should work as well. If you were cutting your own, it would be simple to just move those two holes... if you are buying the pre-cut, it could still be done, but you'd just have to drill new holes near (but not too close) to the original ones -- in which case notching may still be easier. Good luck with your build!
Log In to reply
Anyway, Great article and thanks for your reply!
Log In to reply
Also have a desire to try it some of this 3D design software now!
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
So cool that you did that presentation. I am designing a tri in my machine shop and will be using aluminum or magnesium to build the foldable frame connection. I do not yet have the Gopro so trying to see the sight lines is hard, so this Demo you made makes me more confident. Simplicity, crashability / survivability / vital parts protection, quick fix swappable parts These are the things I am thinking about for the final design.
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Log In to reply
Well when I build my tricopter (that sunk in the river rhine - but that's a different story...) I just drove to the hardwarestore and bought some alu + sturdy plastic "T" connector. Instinctively I did the same circle method like you showed it. I build it so all motors would lie on an imaginary circle and the fc in the center. The cog had to be adjusted by putting the lipo more to the front to compensate for the weight of the tilt servo/mechanism. Since it was a scrap parts build I let all motors run in the same direction - and it flew very well! I know there is a lot of philosophy going on that the front 2 motors should run in opposite directions but I didn't care since it should be as cheap as possible.
Cheers
Rob
Log In to reply