Updated-Paper Skin for Foam Board

Flite Test planes are addictive!  For me, building is as much fun as flying.  That being said, I sometimes go overboard with coverings, paint, and details.  I spend way to much time decorating when I should be flying.  To try to speed up the building process and still have something that looks cool, I thought I would try something new.... a printed paper "Skin" for my next plane that I could apply to the foamboard before cutting it out.  

The advantages you ask?...

• Reduced Weight - less tape and paint means less weight and every gram counts
• No tiled plans to put together; some people like puzzles... I like planes
• The covering/art can be more complex; you can ad logos, pictures, weathering, rivets, panel lines or anything you want.
• The plane plans are printed and applied directly to the foamboad along with your custom artwork so you can start cutting foamboard right away and by-pass cutting out the plans and tracing them onto the foamboard.

Unfortunately there are drawbacks including potential cost or availability to get the printed skin.

As was quickly pointed out in the comments, many depron and profile builders have been using similar techniques for years.

Bayboos has used this technique for his Depron Builds

MyDigitalParadise has used this process for profiles. He linked the following RCGroup page regarding printing profile skins:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724566#sthash.CS8koWOt.dpuf

 Morgan99 has printed directly to depron/epp using a sign maker printer (very cool design and result)

I am lucky enough to have access to a large printer at work and for the cost of the paper and ink ($3) I can print a non-tiled Flite Test plan with my own creative artwork on plain paper.  I have attached links to different decorated Flite Test plans in .pdf format:

FT-3D - MX2           FT-3D RedBull    FT-3D Green Geo      FT-3D Purple Geo       FT-3D Rainbow
FT-3D - U-Can-Do    FT Duster          FT Mini-Scout            FT-Spitfire Camo

Feel free to use the linked plans above as a starting point for your own designs.  My son is currently working on artwork for a Storch build.  I will probably do other FT designs and post them here....maybe bookmark and check back for additional free work done by others.  If you do a design and are willing to share, send it to me in .pdf format and I will add it to this article (see email address in profile).

STEP1 - Design and Print

I start by downloading the non-tiled version of the plans from Flite Test (in this tutorial, FT 3D).  I then import the .pdf file into a drawing program.  Like Josh Bixler, I love and use Corel Draw; but any art/graphic program could be used.  This is where the creativity comes in.  You can add any colors, art, or 

graphics you want to the basic FT plans.  At this stage you need to look at the design and decide if you need to reverse the plans to decorate both sides of a verticle stab or the bottom of the horizontal stab/elevator, etc.  Once your creative juices have run dry and you are satisfied with your plane skin save the file.  Remember to keep the original scale or adjust it as desired just be aware that you want it to print exactly the size you need...  then Print.  Many office supply stores will print on plain paper at affordable rates.  I know many people have printed the non-tiled plans.....if anyone can add comments on cheap places to print  - please share.

STEP 2 - Prep the Foam Board

Carefully remove the existing paper from one side of the foamboard.  I like to use water and dampen the paper that I am removing as it makes the process a little easier and seems to reduce the curling affect that pulling the paper off causes.  If you choose to use water, apply it carefully with a damp rag or sponge and do not get anywhere near your beautiful printed design or any foamboard paper you do not intend to peel.

STEP 3 - Dry Fit

Once the paper is off, cut your printed design into sections that can be applied to a single piece of foam board.  I try to segregate my pieces into 20"X30" foam board size areas when I do the design so the resulting print is easy to lay out and effeciently use up every inch of the foam board.  Leave yourself some margins, you can cut to the plan design lines later in one step as you cut your plane out of the foamboard (this is one of the advantages).  

Test fit the cutout sheet(s) to make sure they will fit on your foamboard (again make sure there is no water around from your previous step).

STEP 4 - Apply the new paper skin

Spray the back of the printed design with 3M 77 adhesive spray (or equivelant) and let it air dry for about 10 seconds...then immediately apply the design to the paperless side of the foamboard.  Do not spray the adhesive directly on the foam as the propellant will eat up the foam.  If you have curling on your foam, or the design, get a few extra hands to help you in this process.  You want your foam board to be laying flat when you apply the new paper.  If this step intimidates you or you are unsure if the adhesive is adequate or how much to spray on, you can test this process with some scrap foam and paper; after you let it dry a few minutes, you can also try peeling the test result back off the foam to check your adhesion, and to see if there is any damage to the foam.  When applying the spray adhesive I make about three passes over the entire paper making sure I get all the edges.  Don't skimp to much here or your paper wont stick well; at the same time going overboard will add weight.  Note that the paper will feel a little heavy with the adhesive but it gets lighter again as it dries. 

ALTERNATE METHOD.  If you are not worried about the weight, just apply the printed paper over the top of the existing foamboard paper (do not remove any paper).  This will add a little weight but also a little more rigidity and strength.  The choice is yours.

STEP 5 - Rub it out and let it dry

Using a soft clean cloth, rub the design firmly onto the foam board making sure that it is well attached.  Then place another sheet of foam over the top of your handiwork and set some books on top while the spray adhesive dries out a little.  I like to let mine sit for about a half hour before I begin cutting out my design.

If you are applying a design to both sides of a piece of foam (like your verticle stab), apply the first side as described above.  Then, cut out your foam board following the plan lines and flip the plane part over and repeat the process but his time, cut out your 2nd side printed "skin" right on the design lines,apply your adhesive, and carefully line up and attach the second side to the foam board.

Step 6 - Finish and Fly

Now cut, build, and fly the awesomeness that is your foamboard creation. Normally when working with FT designs you are working from the "back or inside" of the wing or fuselage so all creases, 50% cuts, bevels are done from the design template on the same side. When applying a graphic you are working from the "front or outside" and you don't want the blue and red reference lines to show on the graphic. So I apply the graphic to the front where I leave any line that is a 100% cut on with the graphic (all the black lines). Then after cutting all of my 100% cuts I turn the foam over and measure and mark where my creases, bevels, and 50% cuts should be. This can be done a couple different ways:
• Print a plain version with all the lines left on that can be used to transfer these reference points to the back,
• Leave small dots on the front of the design for key reference points and then transfer these points to the back by pin pricking through the foam from the front to the back.
• Just take some measurements and make notes before deleting the lines and then recreate the lines on the back.

STEP 7 - Rate and Comment and if you try this method, send me pics and feedback to update this article with.