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BusyBee Extras - KK2 Overview
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Posted: July 24, 2012 | 4,119 views
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A quick overview of the setting in side the KK2 multicopter controller board.
July 27, 2012
could you tell me please what does P and I stands for?
Maybe then I can figure out my the best settings for my quadcopter.
July 27, 2012
I don't exactly know what the letters P and I stand for but, I do know what they do. The P gain is how sensitive the gyros will be and how much movement they will correct for. The I gain is the same only with the Accelerometers. The limits are how much the gains will compensate for the movements they detect. Leave the limits as default (100 P limit, 20 I limit) and increase the gains, one at a time until you see occupations, and then back the gains down a little, and it will be as stable as it possibly can be. I hope that helps!
July 29, 2012
Thanx mate, that helped.
I found out yesterday that if I trim my quad in self-leveling mode so it flys to my satisfaction, and turn off self-leveling it flys like a dream. I switched it off by acident and was surprised how well it performed, even in strong and gusty winds.
Originally I am a heli guy of all sizes and noe my quad flies like a heli with a V-Bar stabilizing system.
I love the KK2 board. Its just a fantastic piece of work of Rolf Bakke.
August 10, 2012
Proportional Integral Derivative.
P = something like pitch/roll gain
I = something like gain for correcting for wind.
D = attempt to dampen oscillations by predicting what it will need to do.
At least - that's how I understand PID.
July 24, 2012
I must make the time to venture into Multi Rotors :) Nice one
July 26, 2012
August 7, 2012
I notice you do not mention the need to solder a connection to the board for reading voltage output...
Kapteinkuk himself said in his KK2 Q&A http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1675613 that it is necessary to connect to an un-populated hole in the PCB to monitor battery voltage. Also, Youtube user ( dhdsracer ) made a video how-to on soldering to that hole.
Did you have to do this?
August 7, 2012
Yes, I did have to solder the connector onto the board, I can't believe I forgot to mention that. Dhdsracer's video is a very good reference and that is what I used to setup my board for voltage check. Thank you for pointing this out :)
June 25, 2013
I like the giant hunk of glue on the hubs of your props. You must be having the same issue I have with the GEMFAN DJI props. I actually ended up taking a fishing sinker and melting it with a blow torch. Then letting it splatter on to a piece of wood. Then cut the flat sections and glued them onto the hub to get it balanced right. I think I may just have to throw them out and get APC, and ream them to get them to fit. Have you changed the props on your setup? If so what are you using?
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